Perfect brows - getting into shape!
How to create perfect brows .. sculpting, misting, feathering; the treatment styles explained
identifying the right shape
I use a technique called the ‘Golden Ratio’. There are a series of measurements we need to get to create absolute symmetry and perfection, which is unique to each person.
By identifying the centre of the eyes; I apply a sticky ruler to the forehead. Then I mark out each point where the brow will start, where the arch should peak and where the tail should finish, then we determine the thickness based on their preference.
I also like to take into account how much makeup my clients wear, their lifestyle, level of maintenance, personality and skin type before choosing an appropriate brow colour and tattoo technique (Feather Touch, Misting or a Combination of the both).
the process
You will be required to complete a consent form which covers all the T&C’s of Eyebrow Treatments.
We then begin to draw up the shape using the ‘Golden Ratio’, which can take up to 30 minutes to create symmetry and have all the angles right. You will approve the shape and thickness before starting the treatment. I then use a fine blade if we are doing Feather Touch or machine with a needle if we are doing Misting to touch the surface of the skin lightly, this will create minute openings in the skin where the numbing gel is applied.
You will feel a plucking sensation for about 20 seconds to ensure we have covered the whole area. The numbing gel works within 5-10 minutes and is reapplied throughout the entire treatment as many times as required, so you feel minimal discomfort.
“Make sure you choose your eyebrow artist that is experienced, and you can view their work. Having a consultation is highly advised so you can see their environment, talk about what shape, colour and technique you like and ensure they draw a shape that you feel comfortable with.”
Misting
Using a machine with a very fine needle (similar to an acupuncture needle) the device runs back and forth over the skin creating airbrushed like pixels created depth resulting in a soft shadow like appearance behind the eyebrow.
This technique can also help camouflage any old tattooing you have had.
Feather Touch
Also known as micro-blading, feather touch brows is a cosmetic procedure that uses a precise blade to create the look of individual hairs to fill in sparse brows.
Don’t worry; it’s not quite as scary as it sounds. The minute strokes are only as deep as the superficial layers of the epidermis (i.e. the top skin layer) resulting in soft, gap-free, natural-looking brows.
Combination Brow
As it states, this is a combination of two techniques, Misting and Feather Touch to add softness and density were needed to fill larger gappy areas.
How long does it take:
Around 2.5 hours for the initial session and about 2 hours for the perfecting session six weeks later.
The advantages of the process:
There is no need to pencil your brows in anymore. Your brow shape will be perfect every day, creating symmetry and opens up the eye. It literally can transform someone’s face and give you so much confidence. Wake up with perfect ready-to-start-your-day eyebrows and makes your makeup application more efficient.
The only downsized at $895 it is more expensive, but it truly gives you an inner confidence that is worth every cent.
between appointments
In between your brow sculpt I don’t suggest doing anything except pencilling in the gaps in your brows. You want each sculpt (design, wax & tint) to be in the same cycle. If you pluck a few hairs here and there between your maintenance, you will always have stray hairs growing at odd times.
If you have Feather Touch, Misting or Combination Brows you will usually require a 12-18 months colour boost where I will apply the same treatment as your initial session. You may need a monthly maintenance Brow Sculpt to tidy up the hairs growing around the treated area. If your eyebrow hairs are very light and your brow treatment is slightly darker, you will require a monthly tint.
Q&A with Kristal O‘Connell
How long before a wedding should you start working on achieving beautiful brows?
If you want to design and sculpt them into the perfect shape, I would suggest starting 4-6 months before the wedding with 3-4 week monthly maintenance appointments.
If you are considering Feather Touch, Misting or Combination I would suggest at least four months before the wedding as you need two sessions 6 weeks apart. In some cases, you might require a third session.
What are your go-to brow products?
Poni Cosmetics Duo Brow Powder, Magic Pencil and clear Brow Gel. I also like Kevyn Aucoin The Precision Brow Pencil.
What do you want to see more of? Less of?
More soft and seamless brow tattoo techniques. Not overly sculpted eyebrows, some hair that goes a little rouge is ok. A little fluff at the beginning of the brow is soft and feminine.
Less makeup on the brows. The Instagram ombre and heavy makeup look is on the way out.
What are your 2019 predictions for brows and beyond?
Misting! This can be almost undetectable; it uses a very fine needle that creates pixelated dots behind your brow hairs for an airbrushed look. When this heals, it looks like a soft shadow has been applied to your skin. This technique can create an ombre appearance when the baseline of the brow can be darker fading out to a lighter brow at the top or a stronger tail fading to a seamless start to the brow. There are many options for how you want your eyebrow to look.
ABOUT KRISTAL
Kristal O'Connell started her career in the world of beauty as a hairdresser. "I’m a total hands-on person and creative, so this was the best decision I had made. School wasn’t for me, and all I ever wanted to do was play with peoples hair. After a few years hairdressing, I did a makeup course. When you’re in the beauty industry, you evolve." After seven years in the same salon in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne, she bought a one-way ticket to London and travelled the world for the next two years where she worked for the like of Chanel,
La Prarie and Stila.
"I worked whenever I could to get enough money for the next destination and gained so much more experience."
Arriving back in Melbourne she worked for beauty empires Mecca and MAC. "MAC was my home for the next six years in travel retail. I had the dream job, looking after all the Oceania Travel Retail stores located in airports. I seriously played with makeup, managed an incredible team of artists and got to travel to amazing locations such as Tahiti, Fiji, New Caledonia, New Zealand, Singapore, Bangkok and all over Australia for my job. However, it came with an expiry date, so much travel and so little time at home took it's toll."
In 2018 an extraordinary journey began and the risky decision was made to throw all the experience together and freelance full time. "I freelance doing hair and makeup most weekends, and during the week photoshoots and focus on eyebrows. I love the mix of being out and about, going to new locations for weddings and meeting so many people, it gives me the opportunity to stay creative and play with all types of face shapes, eyebrows and skin types. During the week I come back into a clinical environment and literally change people’s lives with eyebrows."
@kristal.oconnell.eyebrows
www.stkristal.com.au/brows
